Claude Dugat

Claude Dugat is a Burgundy producer in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation of the Côte de Nuits. The tiny domaine with cult status produces a small number of wines exclusively from Pinot Noir, with the most sought-after wines coming from designated grand cru sites.

The domaine was founded in 1955 by Claude's father Maurice when he purchased the Grange de Dimes – a 13th Century structure that had been used to store agricultural tithes for the church. Maurice converted it to a winery and cellar and renamed it the Cellier des Dimes. Dugat bottles three grand cru reds from Griotte-Chambertin, Chapelle-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin, two premier cru wines, a Gevrey-Chambertin Villages and a Bourgogne Rouge. The grapes are entirely destalked and fermentation is allowed to start straight away, but there is virtually no pumping over so as to restrict the ingress of oxygen and to avoid too tumultuous fermentation. Instead the grapes are punched down twice a day. Total vatting time is about two weeks after which the juice is left to settle for two days before going to barrel. The Bourgogne is entirely in one year old wood, the village Gevrey a mix of 60% new and 40% one year old, and the various crus are entirely in new wood. All the barrels are provided by Francois Frères.

Claude Dugat has evidently worked out what he wants to achieve and how he is going to get there. These are unusually rich, concentrated wines, without any feel of over extraction. Though there is a sumptuous outer layer which makes the wines attractive in youth, they are clearly built to age.

Claude Dugat runs the domaine with his family, while his three children also run the small negociant business La Gibryotte. Claude's cousin is the well-regarded Burgundy producer Bernard Dugat who owns Domaine Dugat-Py.